

It's not just about the tool - it's about you. If you put the time in behind the buffer you can make any tool dance on the paint.

I teach people how to go up on edge with this tool and turn a 6.5" pad into a 1" pad. But MY SENSE right now telling me to buy a flex ROTARY FIRST (or a BEAST ) and invest in a MICRO tool later on.Īlso best pads to have on hand Mike? if you just had the option to choose 2 kind of pads for Rupes for correction and polishing, what would they be? wool pads,MF pads etc? Any MICRO TOOL will be used for better edging, except if i master the rotary with any extension and small backing plate. So, ROTARY IS the better option ( like flex xfe15 or pe14-2 ) for overall CORRECTION. Next I use an ORBITAL polisher to go back over all the areas I buffed in rotary bode to remove the holograms. I know this and expect this and this is why I do this type of edge work FIRST.

Mike Phillips - Edge Work - Mike Phillips StyleĪnd keep in mind this is antique single stage paint - it's very soft so I was able to CORRECT the paint using soft foam finishing pads.ĪND - AFTER using this tool in ROTARY MODE -it IS going to leave HOLOGRAMS in the paint. Here's a cheesy video I made showing one example of how I use the RUPES Nano Long Neck in rotary mode to edge a 928 Porsche
